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Fashion in India – Old & New


With the increase in urbanization, well-heeled travelers are much more aware about trends, the pollution, the society and the global culture. All these factors have led to a transformation in the Indian fashion industry.

By: Soumya Jain

Not a very long time ago, I remember a time when fast fashion brands such as Mango, Zara and Forever 21 had gripped the market with their vibrant, flowy designs, offering westernized silhouettes and cuts. And we were happily lapping it all up as pieces flew off the shelves.

Indian luxury fashion brands such as Rohit Bal, Ritu Kumar and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla were making Indian wear which was simply exquisite, but not everybody could understand their art, or even think of purchasing them. They were regular staples in luxury magazines in India, and in the wardrobes of celebrities.


Today, however, as the millennial generation has grown up with matured sensibilities and deeper pockets, there is a profounder appreciation for finer apparel. The quality of the material, the embroidery, the sourcing of the fabric, we question and investigate everything. And it is a turn for the better, not just for the brands and the consumers, but for the society in general.

Rohit Bal’s The Kashmir Collection, for example, created for the Usha Silai label is an example of how handlooms are making a comeback into the industry. Usha Silai teaches women from rural areas to stitch, tailor and repair machines. Rohit Bal worked in partnership with Usha Silai to provide artisans from rural areas with employment, while helping them translate their skills into fashionable garments.

The Kashmir Collection, showcased at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018, encapsulates the intricacy of Kashmiri embroidery. The creations have been exclusively stitched by the women at Usha Silai in Kashmir. Mr. Bal has used organic fabrics like cotton, silk blends, chanderis, silk organzas and velvets with motifs of vibrant flowers showcasing the region’s craft. The designer, who is a darling of all luxury magazines in India, as much for his work as his lifestyle, has a golden heart and a sense of responsibility towards the preservation of culture.

But that does not mean that Indian fashion has become more ornate or unapproachable. Indian designers such as Payal Singhal are reinterpreting ready-to-wear fashion as trendy, vibrant and soulful. Having started her design label in United States and then moved back to India, Payal Singhal has a global sense of style, which she effortlessly translates into her creations. Creating lighter apparel which still reference back to Indian designs, motifs and fabrics, Payal Singhal’s collections are a seamless blend of the modern designs with heritage textiles and crafts.

Brands such as Raw Mango (which creates lighter traditional saris and lehengas with modern designs) and Advaya (which creates heritage Kanjeevaram saris) coexist to cater to a diverse, intelligent clientele.

As our generation matures and advances from fast fashion brands, and the younger ones grow up appreciating finer details, Indian designers are more than happy to comply with these demands. From the stables of older designers in India, to the closet of the young blood, India’s fashion scene has developed manifold in the past 10 years – all for the better.

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